Bearded Dragon Pregnancy and Egg Laying Timeline

Breeding Process
Published on: November 8, 2025 | Last Updated: October 31, 2025
Written By: Beardie Joe

If your bearded dragon is suddenly digging, refusing food, or showing a swollen belly, you might be wondering if she’s pregnant and what happens next.

I’ve personally guided my own dragons through multiple egg-laying cycles, and with my background in reptile care, I’m here to help you support your pet with confidence and care.

We’ll cover how to confirm pregnancy, the exact timeline from mating to laying, and how to create a safe nesting box for a successful outcome.

Table of Contents

Recognizing the Signs: Is Your Bearded Dragon Gravid?

When my dragon, Ember, was gravid for the first time, I almost missed the early signs. It’s a subtle shift at first, but knowing what to look for can prepare you for the journey ahead.

Physical Changes You Can’t Miss

Noticeable Weight Gain and Abdominal Swelling: Her sides will begin to bulge, creating a distinct pear-shaped appearance that feels firm, not soft.
Visible Ovulation and Egg Follicles: You might see grape-like lumps along her lower belly. This is a definitive sign she’s developing eggs.
Increased Appetite, Then a Sudden Stop: She’ll eat ravenously to build up nutrients, but will often refuse food entirely right before she’s ready to lay.

Behavioral Shifts That Signal It’s Time

Restlessness and Glass Surfing: She’ll pace her enclosure almost constantly, driven by a powerful instinct to find the perfect nesting spot.
Frantically Digging: This is the biggest clue. You’ll find her scratching and digging at the corner of her tank, trying to create a burrow.
Seeking Warmth and Basking More: She needs extra energy and warmth for the developing eggs, so don’t be surprised if she’s permanently parked under her heat lamp.

Gravid vs. Overweight: Telling the Difference

This is a common point of confusion, but the body feel is completely different. An overweight dragon has a soft, squishy belly and fat pads on its head. A gravid dragon has a firm, lumpy abdomen from the eggs inside. The frantic digging behavior is also a dead giveaway that it’s eggs, not just extra weight.

The Complete Week-by-Week Pregnancy Timeline

From my experience, this process typically unfolds over four to six weeks. Here’s a general guide to what you can expect.

Timeline	Physical Changes	Behavioral Changes
Week 1-2 Post-Mating	Appetite increases dramatically. Belly may look slightly fuller.	Behavior is mostly normal. She’s building her energy and nutrient reserves.
Week 3	Abdominal swelling becomes obvious. You may feel or see small, round lumps (developing eggs).	She may become more lethargic and spend more time basking to keep the eggs warm.
Week 4	Her belly is very large and distended. She looks clearly “egg-bound.”	Restlessness begins. She’ll start glass surfing and investigating the bottom of her tank.
Week 5 (Pre-Laying)	She may stop eating completely. You can often see the outline of individual eggs.	Digging behavior becomes intense and frantic. This is when you must have a lay box ready for her.

The key hormonal change driving all of this is a surge in calcium demand. Her body is pulling calcium from her bones to form the eggshells, which is why proper supplementation is non-negotiable. Watching Ember go through this was a powerful reminder of the immense physical toll this process takes.

Preparing for Egg Laying: The Nesting Box Setup

When your bearded dragon starts pacing or scratching at the corners of her enclosure, she’s telling you she needs a safe, private place to lay her eggs. Setting up a proper lay box is one of the most critical steps you can take to prevent egg-binding and ensure a smooth process. I’ve had to do this for several of my girls over the years, and getting it right makes all the difference.

Step-by-Step Instructions for Your Lay Box

Find a container that is large enough for your dragon to turn around and dig in comfortably.
Fill the container with a suitable moist substrate to a depth that allows for deep tunneling.
Place the box in a quiet, warm corner of her main enclosure to make her feel secure.
Gently introduce her to the box and monitor her interest, but give her plenty of space.

Ideal Substrate and Container Choices

The right materials make the nest feel natural and hold the tunnels she digs. I always use a mix that holds moisture well without becoming waterlogged or dusty.

Substrate Options: A 50/50 mix of organic topsoil and play sand, moistened vermiculite, or coconut coir.
Container Dimensions: Aim for a box at least 12 inches deep, and 16 to 20 inches long to give her ample room. A plastic storage bin works perfectly.

Perfecting Temperature and Humidity

Eggs can easily desiccate if the environment is too dry. Maintaining a humid, warm spot encourages natural laying behavior and keeps the eggs viable if they are fertile. The substrate should feel damp to the touch, like a wrung-out sponge, but never soggy. Keep the temperature in the lay box area around 80-85°F (27-29°C).

The Egg Laying Process: What to Expect on the Big Day

Watching your dragon lay her eggs is a fascinating, albeit exhausting, experience for both of you. The entire event can take several hours, and she will likely seem very focused and tired. From my first time with a gravid dragon to now, I’ve learned that patience and quiet observation are your best tools.

Common Behaviors and the Laying Process

You’ll notice distinct signs that the main event is starting. She will dig a deep tunnel, position her body over it, and then enter a rhythmic contraction phase to pass each egg.

She may stop eating for a day or two beforehand.
You’ll see intense digging in the lay box, often for long periods.
Her breathing may become more noticeable as she strains.
The actual laying involves a series of pushes, with a short rest between some eggs.

Clutch Size and Egg Quality Indicators

Bearded dragons can surprise you with how many eggs they produce. A healthy clutch typically ranges from 15 to 30 eggs, but first-time mothers may have fewer.

Good Eggs: Look firm, white, and have a leathery, slightly dimpled texture.
Infertile or Bad Eggs: Appear yellow, collapsed, or smell foul. These should be removed promptly.

Your Role: What to Do (and Not Do)

Your job is to be a supportive, unobtrusive guardian. The most important thing you can do is provide a stress-free environment and resist the urge to interfere.

Do: Ensure fresh water is available for her to rehydrate. Leave her completely alone while she is actively laying.
Do Not: Attempt to handle her or the eggs during the process. Do not make loud noises or sudden movements near her enclosure.

Post-Laying Care for Your Bearded Dragon

Watching your girl finally lay her clutch is a huge relief. I remember the first time my dragon, Luna, finished; she looked absolutely exhausted but so peaceful. Your immediate job now is to shift from egg-watcher to dedicated nurse, helping her recover her strength.

Your Immediate Aftercare Checklist

Right after she’s done, you have a few key tasks. Move calmly and quietly to avoid stressing her further.

Offer a shallow, lukewarm bath for 15-20 minutes. This helps her rehydrate through her vent and cleans off any substrate.
Provide a fresh, large bowl of clean water in her enclosure. She will likely be very thirsty.
Return her to a clean and quiet tank. Remove any old eggs and soiled substrate promptly.
Observe her closely for the next few hours. A little fatigue is normal, but she should still be alert.

Dietary and Hydration Boost

Egg production drains their calcium and energy reserves. Her body needs premium fuel to bounce back.

Increase her feeder insects substantially. I often offer Luna two larger meals per day for the first week.
Dust every single insect feeding with a high-quality calcium supplement, no D3 needed if she has proper UVB.
Gut-load your feeder insects with nutritious greens like collard greens and sweet potato for an extra nutrient punch.
Continue to encourage hydration. Offer water via a dropper if she doesn’t drink from her bowl and consider daily baths.

Think of this recovery period as a critical refueling stage; what you feed her now directly impacts how quickly she regains her vitality.

Recognizing Dangerous Complications

While most dragons handle this process well, you must stay vigilant for signs of egg binding (dystocia). This is a life-threatening condition where eggs get stuck.

Lethargy that persists for more than a day. A tired dragon is one thing; a limp, unresponsive one is an emergency.
Visible straining or pushing without passing any more eggs.
Twitching legs, a wobbly walk, or paralysis in the back end.
Loss of appetite and rapid weight loss after laying.
A noticeable lump you can feel in her lower abdomen.

If you observe any of these red flags, you must contact a reptile veterinarian immediately-this is not a wait-and-see situation. I always keep the number for my exotic vet on the fridge for this exact reason.

From Clutch to Hatchlings: The Incubation Timeline

If you’ve decided to incubate the eggs, get ready for a fascinating two-month project. It requires precision and patience. Handling the delicate, leathery eggs always makes me feel a bit like a scientist, creating the perfect little world for them to develop in.

Setting Up Your Incubator: A Step-by-Step Guide

Choose an incubator. A simple Hovabator-style tabletop model works perfectly for most hobbyists.
Place the incubator in a room with a stable ambient temperature, away from direct sunlight or drafts.
Fill the incubator’s water channels according to the manufacturer’s instructions to raise the humidity.
Turn the incubator on and let it run for at least 24-48 hours to stabilize the temperature and humidity before adding eggs.
Prepare an incubation container. I use a plastic deli cup or Tupperware filled with a moist, sterile substrate like vermiculite or perlite.
Gently bury the eggs about halfway into the substrate, being careful not to rotate or turn them. Mark the top with a pencil.
Place the container inside the pre-stabilized incubator, and you’re set.

The Golden Numbers: Temperature and Humidity

Getting these two factors right is the single most important part of the process.

Temperature: Maintain a steady range between 80°F and 86°F (27°C – 30°C). The temperature will determine the sex of the hatchlings, with cooler temps producing more females and warmer temps producing more males.
Humidity: Keep the humidity inside the incubation container high, around 70% to 80%. The substrate should feel moist but not wet enough to squeeze water out.

Invest in a reliable digital thermometer/hygrometer with a probe to monitor these conditions daily; the cheap analog dials are often inaccurate. A small fluctuation is okay, but a major swing can be disastrous.

The Waiting Game and Hatchling Basics

Now, you wait. The expected incubation period is typically between 50 and 80 days.

You may see the eggs slowly swell over time.
Close to hatching, they may sweat or collapse slightly.
Do not open the container frequently. Check for condensation on the lid as a sign of good humidity.

When they finally hatch, the babies (called hatchlings) will stay in the egg absorbing their yolk sac for a day or so before emerging. Once out, move them to a simple setup with paper towel substrate, a shallow water dish, and tiny, appropriately-sized food. They can be housed together briefly but watch for bullying and be prepared to separate them.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the typical growth timeline for a bearded dragon?

Bearded dragons grow rapidly in their first year, reaching about 16-24 inches in length by 12 months. They are considered fully grown by 18-24 months, depending on genetics and care.

When can I start holding my bearded dragon?

You can begin handling your bearded dragon after it has settled into its new home for a few days to a week, once it appears calm and curious. Always support its body fully and keep sessions short to build trust gradually. Keep in mind that ongoing care involves maintenance costs, including proper lighting, heat sources, and regular feeding. Proper setup and routine upkeep can help prevent costly health issues later.

How long do bearded dragons get?

Adult bearded dragons typically reach 18-24 inches in total length, with males often being slightly larger than females. Their size is influenced by factors like diet, genetics, and overall health. Understanding what a healthy dragon looks like helps you spot illness early. Common physical signs to watch for include reduced appetite, lethargy, abnormal shedding, wheezing, or swelling.

Wrapping Up Your Dragon’s Journey

Seeing your bearded dragon through egg-laying is a powerful experience. The most vital steps are recognizing her gravid behaviors and getting that lay box ready the moment you suspect she’s carrying eggs. This single act of preparation prevents the serious health risks of egg-binding. Just as you monitor reproductive health, regular dental checks matter. Bearded dragons have acrodont teeth that grow continuously and can wear or misalign if dental health is neglected. Understanding bearded dragon dental anatomy is essential to keeping their teeth healthy.

From my own dragons, I know this process can feel intense. Remember the core timeline: pre-laying restlessness, successful digging and laying, and that critical recovery period where your girl needs extra food and calcium. Trust your instincts, provide a calm space, and you’ll both get through it.